Here is a restaurant in Alfama without fado music but with a perfect location. In the wintertime, sit inside: It is very cozy, you will be amid portraits of famous actors on each one of the three floors. In the summertime, sit outside next to the caged birds on the terrace, framed by the picturesque alley of San Miguel. Here you will be among the locals, and you might hear someone calling out instead of ringing the bell. As a speciality, you have fried potato skins with mayonnaise.
To get there, catch tram nº 12 or nº 28 and get off at Portas de Sol, stroll down through narrow streets and steps until you find the São Miguel Church. Or just ask a local if you get lost in Alfama labyrinth. Or, if you are near Fado Museum, you can go up Street São Pedro.