Just off the main square of Santa Pau, which dates to the early fourteenth century, under cover of a deep sapphire sky -- we ducked under a stone arch to walk into Cal Sastre. Immediately I noticed the salmon walls, multitude of awards and faded, family photographs. (Yes, they're real. The parents of the owner are shown in their wedding suits in the same square I just stood in.) Up a narrow, winding stairway by walls covered with still more awards we find a table clearly set for a luxurious and appropriately, award-winning meal. The setting tells me we are in the dining room of family friends. The abundant glasses and place settings that seem to go on forever beg to differ. From course one the food is more El Bulli than grandma's kitchen. We are in the middle of a very rural area where tourism is not the industry it is in faraway Barcelona. Yet Cal Sastre, with or without it's Michelin recommendations, could rival any modern gastronomy that Catalunya has to offer. Perhaps greater Spain, even. It is modern, artistic food with the soul of heritage and history behind it - served in a place that says, "Welcome to our home."; a home of tailors, hence the name and needle and thread that compose the restaurant's logo.