Set in the heart of the Charleston
peninsula’s North Central neighborhood, this Italian-ish neighborhood hangout would be right at home in Williamsburg
or Bushwick. The wood-fired thin crust pizzas are made with sourdough crust and adorned with whimsical names—“Fancyboy” features oyster mushrooms, escarole, and a fried egg, while “Mayor Quimby” sports rabe and littleneck clams. Among the starters, the boquerones—anchovies swimming in olive oil and wrapped in grapefruit with black pepper— are not to be missed; likewise with daily specials that often feature rare Asian vegetables and peppers sourced locally. House-made ice creams close the meal, with fun toppings like “Nutella magic shell” and rainbow nonpareils. It’s worth coming early for the 4-6 p.m. happy hour, when the pizza transforms to deep dish Detroit-style square pie, and several natural wines by the glass are deeply discounted. The husband-and-wife owners designed the dining room to balance bright white walls with a dark, wood bar area. Just across the street, they own the dive-y Faculty Lounge, where the young professional patrons that pack Renzo on weekend evening head after a meal.