In the center of Zunyi stand two small mountains. The first, Phoenix Mountain, is topped by a pagoda-design fire tower and offers a great climb, and most of all a breathtaking view of the city. On the way, you'll also find a Buddhist monastery. Just next to Phoenix Mountain is Red Army Mountain. It's the site of a monolith to the Communist triumph over the Nationalists in the 1930s. The stairs to the top are a bit of a challenge, but they beat real mountain climbing. Once you reach the top, you can continue the trek to the Phoenix Mountain pagoda, or take the alternate route down the mountain past the grave mounds of several Red Army troops. Keep your eye out to the right and to the left--the mounds are everywhere.