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Pandelis

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Pandelis   Greece
Pandelis
Tiny Marathi isn’t on any ferry route. You’ll have to come on your own sailboat or take the daily hour-long boat ride from Skala on Patmos. This off-the-grid oasis has no paved roads and no full-time inhabitants, but three rival tavernas are lined up along the sandy bay. My vote goes to Pandelis, set up by the friendly and resourceful Emilianos family in 1978, when Marathi barely registered on any maps. Now the founders' children, Manolis and Toula, run the show with equal brio. Despite the remote location, the extensive menu is impressive: The octopus fritters, creamy moussaka, and homemade baklava are enough to make you miss the last boat and check in to one of the 10 rooms above the restaurant. If it's fully booked, you can always sleep under the stars. (+30 22470 32609)