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At first glance, the sudden appearance of Nicos on "best of" lists—including San Pellegrino's "Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants" roster—seems a bit odd: after all, it's been around since 1957. Its working-class neighborhood and decidedly non-trendy interior design also set it apart from many of its peers on such lists.

Taste any of the dishes prepared here, however, and it's easy to understand why Nicos is often referenced in the superlative. Add truly outstanding service in a city that's known for attentive waitstaff, plus details like a roving mezcal cart and table-side preparation of many dishes—and you'll see why diners often linger over their meals for hours.
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