Nick’s Cove

It always feels like a different world anywhere in the beautiful Point Reyes National Seashore area, and an evening at the hidden Nick’s Cove in Marshall, will have you in love with Tomales Bay. The property was recently overhauled by a group of silent investors that purchased the cottages and the restaurant and they’ve made some phenomenal improvements. Austin Perkins is the new head chef and the genius behind the BBQ oysters. After you’ve been checked in and escorted to your cottage, a delivery of complimentary oysters arrive at your doorstep. I kept hoping the staff at reception would change so that I could check in again. The rooms are cozy and spacious and the fireplace will always be a hit on the foggy and cool evenings. Be sure to either have dinner in the restaurant/bar, or ask for take out and have the meal delivered at the end of the pier, in the famous Boathouse. I’d also recommend making arrangements to start the next morning off right, with a paddle in Tomales Bay in a kayak. Local outfitter Blue Waters Kayaking will literally meet you on the deck of your cottage (if you’re lucky enough to secure one of the rooms on the water) and show you the magic of the area, the true way it needs to be seen. You’ll need to save up (and reserve far in advance) for a room at Nick’s Cove, but the experience is worth the pretty penny.

There are certain places that evoke a halcyon sense of nostalgia. They are the places that stimulate romance, adventure, and longing even in the most jaded of us. This is Nick’s Cove. An unconventional yet charming hotel, it is located on a lone stretch of the northeastern-most shore of California’s oyster-rich Tomales Bay. You go there to stay in one of their handful of cottages with decks sticking out at jaunty angles over the water. Yes, they are on stilts. And yes, there is one that appears to be a houseboat that managed to beach itself on the shore before being informed that it was going to be propped up above the sand and repurposed into a queen- sized hotel suite. You’ll want to bring wine and cheese and perhaps a deck of cards. They have board games available, should you want. Take a bubble bath, sip on a martini. After, guaranteed, you’ll want to cuddle up in a bathrobe next to your suite’s incredibly small but wildly effective fireplace. The tide is low and almost nonexistent in the day, providing you with ample opportunity to explore surrounding oyster farms. At night it comes in quickly, pushing its rhythm against the stilts. Here, there is a feeling of putting oneself on pause; of suspended hours, and of relaxation. And, just like the person at the end of the bar whom you keep locking eyes with, even if you never see them again and even if you get nothing but a smile thrown your way, it is a dance you simply have to participate in.

Located in Tomales Bay (about an hour outside of San Franicsco) is Nick’s Cove, a sprinkling of cottages on the rocks and a fabulous eatery that serves up fresh oysters morning, noon, and night.

old boats gradually sink into the earth along Tomales Bay

must be the original