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Shanghai insiders know that Huxi Mosque is the place to be every Friday between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m.—the Muslim Market, a block-long stretch of vendors selling the most wonderfully fragrant food, pops up next door. Follow the scent of cumin and barbecue to the lamb kebab stand, where cubes of tender, seasoned lamb are grilled on bamboo skewers. Vegetarians should make a beeline for the outrageously good steamed pumpkin dumplings or a refreshing bowl of liangpi, cold mung bean noodles tossed with vinegar, garlic, chili oil, cucumber, and cilantro. Cash only.