Escape the hordes of tourists and head east of the city center to Poblenou, a quiet, leafy, residential neighborhood that boasts a number of excellent under-the-radar restaurants. Among them is this gem just off the Rambla del Poblenou—a warm, brick-walled space known for its stellar seafood-laden rices and fideuà (both are similar to paella, but the rices are a bit soupier, while fideuà is made with noodles). Chef Hug Pla Cortes serves up huge steaming pans of the stuff—sharing is compulsory—and his signature Vulcanus black smoked rice, teeming with prawns, mussels, and mushrooms, is a must-order. There’s also a lengthy list of tapas. The menu conveniently outlines which dishes are gluten- or dairy-free, vegetarian, and child-friendly.