Ride down the endless escalators to the metro (St. Petersburg has the world’s deepest subway system) and head 20 minutes north to Udelnaya—“Udelka” locally. The sprawling flea market sells Russian military hats, children’s books about Lenin, and Soviet-era recordings by “subversive” groups. Cross the metro tracks from the Udelnaya station, turn right, and walk through the clothing market. Visit Saturday or Sunday between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. This appeared in the July/August 2012 issue.