The Punta Gorda Market lies not far from the lapping waters of the ocean, on a street lined with shops and casual cafes. From overturned milk crates, out of the backs of trucks and underneath rainbow-colored umbrellas, Belizeans sell everything from fresh produce to kitchen utensils to socks. However, it’s the Maya women selling spice mixtures who are the stars of the market. These glass jars with red, plastic lids are sought after by chefs and cooks all across Belize. The day I visited, my guide bought several jars for his brother, who cooks up the coast in Placencia. Now, at home in New York City, I still recall that smell when I’m cooking something that needs a little kick.