Castello di Vicarello is the dreamy 12th-century castle-turned-hotel of Aurora Baccheschi Berti and her husband Carlo. Set on vineyards in Maremma, Tuscany, it's the perfect setting to live like an Italian and perfect the art of eating, drinking, and cooking. In true Italian style, the kitchen is the heart of the house and Aurora invites guests to help her prepare meals that might include wild boar ragu or carbonara with fava beans. She also hosts impromptu cooking lessons. I learned how to make gelato and this apple cake which we served that night for dinner.