There may be about 47 billion Italian restaurants in New Jersey, but not all of them—indeed not most of them—are run by “real” Italians. That may account for the superiority of Made in Italy, formerly Montagnaro, a pizzeria/trattoria that is managed by red-blooded italianos, Ciro and Carmela. With the exception of a few somewhat adventurous pizzas (cheese steak topping, anyone?), there are no surprises on the menu—expect all the staples of (southern) Italian-American cuisine, i.e. baked ziti, veal parmigiana, and penne with vodka sauce. The emphasis here is on doing the classics well in an atmosphere that is as unpretentious as the prices.