Southern Italy is a place very rarely visited by tourists. This is a good thing, because once discovered, it might be overrun. For us, it was a necessary stop because this was the area of my family's ancestry, and my mother often spoke of the view to Messina from RC. Carrying my mother's ashes with us, we walked to the Lungomare (seafront) in Reggio Calabria on a cloudy night after a 4-hour train ride from Naples, and the ocean walk was magical and captivating. We could see Sicily across the strait, and while the clouds obscured Etna, the sense of mystery was heavy, and we could hardly wait to cross the strait in two day's time. The Lungomare is where lovers both young and old gather to share private moments with each other with the gentle sounds of waves nearby. After enjoying the walk, we headed to the main drag in RC for the famous Italian "passiegata" (evening walk). Injecting ourselves into the flow, we felt like one of the crowd: while we were outsiders, the vibe from the entirely Italian populace was comfortable, welcoming, and happy. We shopped in the local stores, enjoyed gelato, and had the best dinner of a two and a half week trip in a trattoria here. My wife and I still reminisce about RC, and it remains on the top of our list of "places to move to when we win the lottery".