There is much to be said for Lucca. The buccellato bread with raisins and anise that smells sweet and green, with dots of juicy dried fruit. The storied history. The inviting restaurants. Perhaps most unique are the walls. The walls you'll hear about are the intact fortress walls that surround the city that have been revamped into pedestrian walkways. Meaning one can walk all around the city, elevated on fortress walls. It is extraordinary. What is indescribable are the walls of the buildings themselves. They reflect layers of history with their huge Roman stones, narrow bricks, crumbly bricks, river stones. All mashed together into Frankenwalls. The whole city is like that, Venetian windows in the same piazza as a Florentine arcade. Cathedrals like birthday cakes where every tier is different. A Tuscan street that leads into a huge piazza that feels like Paris. And no wonder. It was built by Napoleon.