A Nice Lusaka Stopover, with ElephantsI loved these paper lamps at Lilayi, in the shape of kudu wall mounts. A gated estate and game preserve on the fringe that separates the city of Lusaka from the bush, LilayI is a great option if you’ve got a night to kill in Lusaka. (Given the inconvenience of some flights in Zambia, where everything connects through the capital, that’s a likely scenario.) Rooms are in brick rondavels, and simply furnished. The restaurant is a linen-tablecloth sort of place that serves dishes such as impala fillet roulade. There’s an on-site nursery that takes in orphaned elephants from all over Zambia—sadly, my flight the next day left too early for me to see it. No huge loss, perhaps, if you’re seeing them in the wild!