Given the French embrace of jazz, no French capital—even one in the Caribbean—would be complete with a great jazz club. And Fort-de-France has a singularly charming one. Jean-Pierre Villeronce is the owner of Vieux Foyal, just a block from the waterfront. He has created a cozy bar and restaurant with shuttered windows, ceiling fans, and walls lined with photographs of jazz legends. Any day of the week, you can visit the restaurant with its garden and street-side tables to dine on typical creole dishes. But try to time it to Thursday nights, when the joint is jumping during the weekly jam sessions featuring local talents and occasional visiting ones too.