Taxi drivers know where they’re going when clients ask for the Rue des Plantes around lunch or dinner time. The destination? Le Severo, a simple bistro tucked in a quiet neighborhood in the 14th arrondissement, set with vintage chairs and chalk illustrations of cuts of meat on the walls. While some of the starters here are light and may even be vegetarian, Severo is all about the beef. And fries. The crispy-creamy frites are the perfect accompaniment for the expertly grilled steaks, a quintessentially Parisian meal that’s served here by waiters wearing red-and-white-striped butcher aprons.

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