An easy 20-30 minute walk east of the Gothic Quarter, you'll find a neighborhood with more locals that tourists and a plethora of unmarked treasures. Among these hidden treats is La Cova Fumada, a modest restaurant identifiable only by the line forming outside the front door. Stop by for breakfast or lunch—they close at 3pm—and prepare to share a table or stand at the bar. Though space is tight, the food is out of this world. Think charred artichoke hearts, fresh and flaky sardines in vinegar, toast slathered in homemade garlic butter, and the famous “bomba”: a fried, tangerine-sized ball of mashed potatoes and chorizo.