Arguments rage as to the identity of Chiang Mai’s finest khao soi. The classic northern favorite—chicken or beef in a coconut milk curry soup with deep fried crispy egg noodles, boiled egg noodles, pickled mustard greens, and topped off with a dash of fresh lime juice—can be sampled at venues around the city. A perennial contender for the khao soi crown is Khao Soi Khun Yai, which is in an atmospheric courtyard next to the city moat. While the Thai penchant for sweetness often nudges khao soi in an overly saccharine direction, the broth here is perfectly balanced and is suitably spicy. Servings aren’t exactly huge, but at around $1 per bowl, you won’t be blamed for going back for seconds.