Arguments rage as to who can claim the title of the maker of Chiang Mai’s finest khao soi. The classic northern favorite—chicken or beef in a coconut curry soup with deep-fried crispy egg noodles and boiled egg noodles, topped off with pickled mustard greens, shallots, and a dash of fresh lime juice—can be sampled at venues around the city. A perennial contender for the khao soi crown is Khao Soi Khun Yai, which is in an atmospheric courtyard next to the city moat. While the Thai penchant for sweetness often nudges khao soi in an overly saccharine direction, the broth here is perfectly balanced and is suitably spicy. Servings aren’t exactly huge, but at a little more than $1 per bowl, going back for seconds won't break the bank.