The lines between historical monuments and living spaces are often blurred in Croatia. It’s not uncommon to walk into a bar that puts pillows out on the ancient steps of a roman palace, or a restaurant that uses sarcophagi as space dividers. And why not?
What I didn’t quite expect was to find one of the oldest buildings in Zadar, an 11th century church, tucked away in the back of one of the cafes, Cafe Lovre on Narodni trg (People’s Square).
The church is an incredible study in pre-roman recycling. Non of the column bases and tops match, because they were pilfered from other structures in the area. In the back of the church, on your right, you can even find an ancient mile marker, brought in from god knows where, to become the upside down corner piece for the donor chapel. If you can spring for an great guide they’ll bring this one, and many other secret spaces in Zadar alive for you.
>>>Warm thanks to Alan Mandić from Secret Dalmatia, for organizing a truly memorable, and off the beaten path trip for our curious and insatiable group of travelers, and to the Art Hotel Kalelarga for perfect accommodations in Zadar.
