Rupununi River Explorations in Guyana's Amazon Outback
Most people access Karanambu by boat on the Rupununi River (although you can also arrive by bush plane), which runs walking distance from the remote lodge located just 30 miles from the Brazilian border. The home of conservationist Diane McTurk, a world-renowned expert on giant otters, it's known as a place to escape the modern world and get back to nature. There is no cell service, no TV; not even Wi-Fi.
Lodging is in simple thatched-roof huts where bats fly in and out as you sleep snug under a mosquito net—and the beds here are fabulously comfortable. Meals are served family style, and the property caregivers, Andrea and Salvador, are beyond friendly and knowledgeable—and can tell quite a good story about living in the middle of nowhere.
The 100-sq-mi former cattle ranch is a favorite destination for conservationists, birders, and anyone interested in seeing giant river otters, anteaters, black caiman, and plenty of creatures of the night. Located in the North Rupununi, a region of southwestern Guyana known for its expansive wetlands and savanna, as well as its biological and cultural diversity, it is believed there may be as many as 700 species of fish in the waters around Karanambu—more than anywhere on earth.
Try to spend two or three nights for the full experience, and make sure to catch the Victoria Amazonica waterlily bloom. Note that visiting in the wet versus dry seasons will provide distinctly different experiences as water levels change.