The four linguistic regions of Switzerland
may not agree on much, but they do agree that secret to a great-tasting fondue is to earn it by hiking to it. Such is the case at Zurich’s unofficial fondue speakeasy, in a villa cloaked by pine trees on a ridge deep in the forests of Uetliberg, a woodsy mountain park overlooking Zurich
. Getting to the cozy wood-paneled stubli requires a 20-minute trek over pebble trails in the pitch-black woods, so bring a flashlight and follow the pungent scent of melted cheese. Your reward is a heaping fortress of greens doused in a tangy dressing followed by a caquelon filled with a warm, bubbling mixture of Emmental and surchoix Grüyere cheeses laced with a heady kirsh. It’s best washed down with a Swiss Fendant, which according to Swiss traditionalists, is the only drink to be consumed with fondue, lest the cheese harden in your gut. They also serve Swiss red wines, which helps flush the body of excess sodium and thus healthier, but expect eye-rolls from locals if you order it.