The J.T. Youngblood’s fried chicken operation had a large presence in Texas up through the middle of the 20th century, with dozens of locations scattered throughout the state. Chef Todd Duplechan, chef and owner of Lenoir, one of Austin’s best restaurants, rebooted the old icon, bringing back the crunchy fried bird and down-home side dishes. The restaurant is located in the modern mixed-use Mueller development, but dishes here have the time-worn appeal of comfort food, with tawny and knobby fried chicken, mashed potatoes awash in a velvety brown gravy that would make any grandmother proud, and staunch greens slicked with vinegar. The shakes are made with 8-percent-butterfat soft-serve ice cream, so save plenty of room for dessert.