Quietly unassuming, this gem of a Thai restaurant resides on Brewer Street amidst the intersection of the equally frenetic Wardour and Old Compton Streets.
The interior is comfortable and basic, and stylishly uplifted by the neon lettering on the walls. The crowd is a casual twentysomething Soho group passing by for a pit stop, while staff are genial, pleasant and on-hand to explain much of the menu to the unfamiliar.
The restaurant’s most well-known dish – having been covered by several of the blogerati and the Observer’s Jay Rayner – is the mackerel curry, which is life-affirmingly deep and flavoursome, though it will come at the expense of your pharyngeal lining. Corn cakes and Son-in-Law Balls (a kind of deep-fried vegetarian scotch egg with a tangy tamarind sauce) are pleasingly satisfying, while the pared-down appetizer menu gets the essentials spot on – Moo Ping (chargrilled pork skewers) and Tom Tum Kung (hot and sour soup) are both excellent here.
Mains are very good as well – vast noodle soups and stir-fries are available, and the conventional green/red curries and Thai beef salad are also done well. There are a pleasing number of Northern-Thai style dishes on the menu. Though less flashy and refined than equivalently priced contemporaries like Busaba, the experience is a vastly more personal and deliciously profound one.