Part 2 of 3: An hour into my sunset cruise of the Bosphorus, the sky had transformed to a golden yellow. On this November Sunday (my birthday!), the strait was alive with activity. We passed ships and boats of all sizes. Birds filled the sky. Traffic crossed on the bridge between Europe and Asia. And so many people were gathered at the waterfront, eating in cafes, fishing from piers, or just watching the world go by. I saw the heart of Istanbul. And my heart was still racing, as I was never more excited to be anywhere in my life.