When it comes to noodle shops, I'm partial to the hole-in-the-wall variety. The kind that seats you elbow-to-elbow with students speaking Japanese. The kind that's more memorable for its fare than its fanfare. With its calligraphy wall hangings, blond wood booths, and sleek styling, Ippudo is a more grown-up place to get in on New York's ramen rage. I had the Shiromaru Hakata Classic with the recommended addition of mustard greens and was not disappointed.