'They' say Rome has the best gelato in Italy. Since I haven't been to every town in Italy, I can't confirm that. Neither, though, can I deny it because when I tasted the gelato at Gelateria del Teatro while in Roma I definitely experienced something that made my eyes roll back in my head. When I'm home in NYC, there's only place I know of that can take me back to that Roman Holiday moment and make my taste buds sing: il Laboratorio del Gelato at Ludlow and Houston. As the name suggests, this is a lab; this ain't no American ice cream shop! Flavors change regularly, so don't expect your favorites to always be in the cases. When it's busy at night, take a number and wait for those digits to be called by a lab-coat wearing technician of gelato creation. Your world will be rocked and your gelato horizons widened. But don't worry, it will be like a holiday for your mouth, like a party only you're invited to! As the name and lab coats suggest, gelato is serious [ly good] business here.