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Hwanghaekalguksu specializes in seafood and noodle dishes, something Koreans do better than anyone else. You do have to be limber enough to sit on the floor, since the restaurant offers traditional dining, but the mere scent of noodle and crab and shrimp is worth any leg cramp. (Tell the taxi driver to go to the Parkwood Hotel, which is across the street, because you’re never going to pronounce Hwanghaekalguksu correctly.)

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