Cycling along Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, I was able to explore the area from the inside out, fully immersing myself in the surroundings. I got drenched in the rain. I sweated up the hills in the scorching sun. When I got tired, I stopped for a dip in the aquamarine coves along the coast. I rode on dirt roads through olive groves and vineyards, pausing along the way to feast on grapes and figs. I passed whitewashed limestone villages and stopped for lunch at small, off-the-beaten-path restaurants, some of which seemed like they had not changed since Tito’s time. And after a full day on the road, when I felt blissfully tired and high on the exercise, I got to explore the main tourist attractions in town.