A three hour journey from Ha Noi (by bus, boat, gondola and foot) will bring you to Perfume Pagoda. This ancient temple attracts thousands of visitors in its peak season (February 15th- March) when many Vietnamese take a pilgrimage up the steep path of Chua Huong while the mountains are in bloom (giving the site its name).
We visited in January when the vendors were just starting to prepare for the hordes of visitors. It was strange walking around the empty zigzagging lines and endless turnstiles. I was grateful to have the place to ourselves but I'd rather have visited when it was bustling with young people looking for romance!