We boarded the train in the old Shan capital of Hsipaw, Myanmar, finding our wooden bench seats from which we watched the countryside slip by. The train tracks were laid over a hundred years ago and the train seems not much younger, with peeling paint and large open windows that have long since lost their glass panes. Over the next eight hours we rocked past rice fields, farms, small villages, and memorably over the bridge spanning the Goteik Viaduct, which stretches almost 700 meters along a 100-meter deep gorge. When we pulled into a new station, women and men flocked to the train windows offering bags of noodles or fried treats for sale. Small boys walked along the tracks hawking cups full of water from plastic buckets.