My Bike Beyond Boundaries tour of Albania's World Heritage Sites began at the Millennium Hotel, at the base of the Gramoz Mountains in tiny Pogradec. Set directly on Lake Ohrid, the Balkans' deepest lake, the tiny town begs for fishermen to plumb its bounty, which stretches across eastern Albania's border to Macedonia. A successful catch teams with the local Koran fish, a tasty version of trout. Our cycling group devoured succulent morsels at dinner, alongside myriad organic salads and side dishes.
The morning after our feast, I was up early. In the misty morning, I stepped out on my private balcony at the Millennium and gazed down on the empty boats peppering the lake's shores. Was I looking at the craft that had delivered last night's Koran to our evening meal?