The Homiest Modernist Cuisine in Oakland
I've never thought of "molecular gastronomy" as comfort food. But at Haven, chef Kim Alter (before moving over to Plum) created some radical-seeming dishes as homey as anything your grandma made. Even though Daniel Patterson (Coi, Plum) owns this Jack London Square restaurant, and Alter cooked at the Michelin-starred Manresa, there's nothing obviously avant-garde about Haven's cuisine. A bit of foam shows up in the amazing deconstructed shepherd's pie, which otherwise has a rustic feel. The flour for the pasta in the Carbonara, pictured here, is smoked before the noodles are handmade, and instead of being stirred in, the farm egg floats on top of the dreamy pancetta-specked, chive-flecked dish. The bar at Haven concocts some of the best drinks in this cocktail-crazed town, as well.
By Derk Richardson, AFAR Staff
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44 Webster St, Oakland, CA 94607, USA