The tassels! The skirts! The poker faces! The soldiers, known as Evzones, who guard the Monument of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Greek Parliament and the Presidential Mansion are relieved every few hours every day. But on Sunday mornings at 11 a.m., the Changing of the Guard takes its full traditional ceremony, with gesture, high kicks, pomp, and impressive costume. The 400 folds in the soldiers' "Greek kilt," by the way, stand for 400 years of Ottoman occupation (the Greeks and Turks have a long-standing tense relationship). Watching is fun for kids and adults alike.