Thirty nine years ago Mama Kim opened Itaewon's Grand Ole Opry to cater to US G.I.s. At that time, her liquor was duty-free to encourage US servicemen to move off base and into the Korean economy. However the bars of Itaewon are no longer just for American service men. Seoul's most famous foreign district is quickly rising to be Korea's next trendy enclave filled with both expats and Koreans alike. Visit Mama Kim and her historical honky tonk before their doors close due to the massive influx of modern chic.