On the Ganges to witness the Aarti (prayer) ceremony. Before we boarded a row boat to watch masses come to the Ghats to offer prayers and float tiny oil lamps on the river. The moment that struck me aaas that a woman was sweeping the steps to the ghats before the ceremony began and using such a primitive tool. The candle sermon that followed is something to behold. Unless you are totally OK with mass crowds, find a space near top of steps or in a corner where you have some breathing room. Beggars and people selling flowers, candles, and trinkets are aggressive and persistent. as a New Yorker I didn't find it a problem, but you've been warned.