Sarajevo is Europe without tourists. A stroll downtown takes you through time, from the Baščaršija district, with its 16th-century mosque and tiny Ottoman-era shops, into the Austro-Hungarian quarter, and finally to Yugoslavian-era apartment blocks. Sidewalk cafés serve strong coffee to residents reclaiming their city from its recent history of conflict. The Miljacka River flows beneath graceful bridges, and you won’t see a Starbucks anywhere. Go now, before word gets out.