Across the Tiber River, the medieval neighborhood of Trastevere is one of Rome’s most enchanting. And its low-key vibe is a welcome reprieve from the flood of visitors in the city center. Piazza di Santa Maria, with a fountain and 12th-century basilica, is a popular meeting point and good place to begin exploring the warren of side streets lined with colorful buildings. Along via della Lungaretta, just a few minutes’ away, you’ll find Fior di Luna, an institution dating to 1952 and reliant on seasonal ingredients (meaning don’t look for strawberry in January).
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