Mexico is home to two fiercely opposing football clubs: Chivas (the country’s most popular team) and Atlas (which has only won a single league title, in 1951). The fan rivalry, which divides Guadalajara along class and neighborhood lines, persists today—and, if you happen to be in town when the two teams face off, you’re all but guaranteed a lively match. Chivas plays in a shiny new stadium on the city’s outskirts, but games at Estadio Jalisco (Atlas’ home stadium, where Chivas used to play) offer a more fun, authentic experience.
