At the central fish market in the ancient Moroccan coastal city of Essaouira, table after white table is piled high with the catch of the day. Each table displays only one variety, with the lack of strong smells speaking to the freshness of the fish. Merchants frequently hose down their tables and the ancient stone street below, creating a briny slurry customers slog through while choosing their dinners. Happy stray cats weave around legs and alight upon the fish carts, looking for the occasional tossed scrap or turned back. If you don't have the means to cook your own, head to the fish carts that ring the water side of the square, where you can haggle for the fish you want, walk a few steps to one of the open air restaurants, and have it cleaned, grilled and served to you faster than you can say "winner, winner fresh fish dinner."