Contramar, in the Roma neighborhood of Mexico City, is treated with some serious respect among food people. When I was reading Chowhound before the trip, it was on most people's must-eat lists. And I'll confirm it: the seafood was fantastic. I can't remember what kind of fish this was, but it was so simply prepared—just grilled, with one side topped in salsa verde and the other side with salsa roja. The tuna tostada is apparently much copied elsewhere, but it can only be this good here. Some octopus, some beer, some horribly annoying hurdy-gurdy musicians—a really great late lunch. They're not open for dinner.