Gallardo led us through streams, down footpaths, and through sorghum fields. His cheek was full of coca leaves and stories. We took daily horseback excursions from el Bordo de las Lanzas, an estancia bought by the Arias family in 1846. After brushing the dust off our boots Magdalena and Dario Arias regaled us with tales of the land and people of the area over wonderful glasses of regionally produced Malbec. Our daughter explored the land and played chess with their children as we enjoyed eating and learning and eating.