The Ciudad Viejo neighborhood of Montevideo, Uruguay is a veritable ghost town on weekends--making a stroll through its streets an enchantment that recalls bits of Havana, Paris and New Orleans, and is so unknown by most travelers that it makes it seem that much more special. Amid the crumbling and restored Colonial, French and modern buildings sits the Don Boutique Hotel--a spanking new jewel that couldn't be friendlier or more accommodating. From its rooftop bar and pool one gets a thrilling panorama of this Spanish medina, reeking of mystery, danger and adventure. Across the street, the city's meat market thrives during the week,with one popular stand offering two dozen varieties of empenadas. But the Don serves the best free breakfast I had in all of South America. I traveled alone and this was one of the best times I ever had in a strange city.