Bright red Chinese characters dominate one end of Bonham Strand West in Hong Kong's traditional merchant neighborhood of Sheung Wan. If you are in the market for edible birds' nests, herbal medicines or dried seafood by the bushel, this is the place. It's also a great place to stay. Units in some of the old commercial buildings in Sheung Wan are being converted (quietly, against zoning regs) into flats and can be rented short-term. A short walk will bring you to business-y Central or party playground LKF.