There’s no shortage of piste in Switzerland, but the best place to swoosh down the slopes is on the sunny slopes of Corvatsch and Corviglia, part of St. Moritz’s ski area and located in the heart of the Romansh-speaking region. The charmlessness of urban St. Moritz may be surprising to many—but fear not, just outside the city with its 1960s architecture is the real deal. You'll find a winter wonderland replete with horse-drawn sleighs; ice-skating rinks; 220 miles of piste, including the steepest start to a run in Switzerland (the Piz Nair Wall, with a near-vertical drop); 93 miles of winter walking trails; a 124-mile network of wooded cross-country-ski trails; and a half-pipe for snowboarders.
It doesn’t have the quaintness of Zermatt or Gstaad, but there’s a reason St. Moritz lures the glitterati and twice hosted the winter Olympics (in 1928 and 1948): The Engadine Valley, where it is located, is breathtaking. Just outside town are quiet Alpine villages decorated with colorful handpainted sgraffiti; a wild, forested landscape; and the renowned Engadine light. Here, the luxurious and hardscrabble elements of Alpine life coexist, but well-known peaks like Piz Bernina, Piz Palü, Corvatsch, Corviglia, and Diavolezza will stir even the most jaded of travelers.