Just outside the entrance to the Kasbah, in the old medina of the town of Chefchaouen (Morocco's famed "Blue City") is a lively square rimmed with trees and cobalt blue benches. Not unlike the Bathesda Fountain in New York City, if one sits in this square long enough it seems possible to watch the whole town go by. And all its tourists. There is a fountain, there are cafes, shops selling leather goods and postcards and roaming children happy to be responsibility-free. Sit long enough and you'll even hear the call to prayer ringing out from the mosque at the far end of the square.