Absorb the melancholy romance of tango
Just as it's important for any visitor to Buenos Aires
to witness both the old and the new, it's key to the traveler's experience to see both sides of tango: the tourist spectacle, where gorgeously outfitted dancers wow the crowds with grace and athleticism, and the milonga
, or tango club, where local dancers of all ages and skill levels gather to practice and dance. The former isn't hard to find: Tango shows are advertised everywhere. Some of the best include the seductive Rojo Tango at the Faena Hotel, a simpler show at the old-fashioned Cafe Tortoni, or the classic evening performance at legendary Bar Sur. To experience a real milonga, try El Beso or La Catedral—you can just sit and watch if you like.