We loved Cafe Madrigal so much that we returned three times in two days. By our third visit, the slightly gruff owner-bartender was offering us free tastes of rum and suggestions about where else to explore in the city. The cafe is one of those magical Havana places that looks like nothing much from the outside—it's located in a house on a quiet residential street—but contains multitudes. The interior is filled with plants and provocative paintings. A large black piano consumes one corner of the room. But the balcony, with its few tables and screen of hanging plants, was our favorite. In a city that isn't completely at ease with gay folks, Cafe Madrigal feels like a refuge: A comfortable place to be "out" over tapas and rum served neat.