Tokyo is teeming with izakayas, literally “stay sake shop,” where people go to relax after work. They say "kampai" when cheering with their sake or beet and "itadakimasu" before digging into the meal they've been waiting for all day.
35 Steps Bistro (its English name) took two of my dinner companions fifteen minutes to find and had all of us hesitantly walking down its eponymous 35 steps into darkness. But it also gave us one of our most entertaining night and three finger-licking plates fried prawns and the best tuna tartare I've ever had--served on garlic bread to top! The mackerel sashimi curled up at the ends as if alive while seared with a blowtorch right on our table. Plum wine and sake served in bamboo kept up the pace with our mackerel and tuna--and kept us ordering until we had repeated every dish we tried.
Don't bother making too many plans for the night when you go: It's easy to stay from opening time to closing time.
When you're close, look for the Shibuya City Hotel, as they're right next to each other.